【芦丹氏是哪个国家的品牌？】

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芦丹氏SergeLutens，法国沙龙品牌。SergeLutens最开始应该是一个自由化妆师，被法国版《Vogue》的美容编辑看上以后推荐到Carita工作----Carita也是一个护肤品牌，貌似国内还没有。到了80年代，资生堂进入欧洲市场，开始推出的两款香水Tactics和Murasaki都反响一般。后来从迪奥邀请到SergeLutens加盟执掌巴黎分舵的美容沙龙，推出的第一款香水NombreNoir(黑色数字)不久就停产了，传言是因为包装太过昂贵导致入不敷出。从此这款香水的名字就此尘封，直到最近LucaTurin在自己的书中对这款香水推崇倍至，才重新为人所知。

头炮没能打响，不过我们的SergeLutens没有一蹶不振，而是再接再厉于1992年推出了一款FeminiteduBois。哎呀呀，这一款可厉害啦----带起了一阵木香调女香的狂潮。而且，这款香水也是SergeLutens和ChristopherSheldrake最佳拍挡合作的开始：SergeLutens引领方向，ChristopherSheldrake调制香水，SergeLutens品牌下几乎所有香水都是这么诞生的。(FeminiteduBois的调香师除了ChristopherSheldrake，还有一个PierreBourdon，就是调出冷水、YSL的Kouros、迪奥的轻舞飞扬香等香水的牛人。)不过，有些遗憾的是，这款FeminiteduBois貌似已经是SergeLutens主持的香水中最具影响的一款，而且还不是以SergeLutens的名字出品，而是挂着资生堂的名号。

不知道是因为SergeLutens在香水界的RP问题，还是因为他自己的这个品牌根基尚浅，SergeLutens的名字极少被任何香水界人士提及。除了LucaTurin的书以外，awo从未在其他的香水书籍或者是香水业内人士的文章访谈中见过SergeLutens这个名字。例如JanMoran的《FabulousFragrancesII》，CalkinJellinek的《Perfumery》，NigelGroom的《TheNewPerfumeryHandbook》等等，都应该算是香水方面的权威书籍，之中都没有提到SergeLutens品牌或者是他家任何一款香水。而且，并不是这些书对沙龙品牌不屑一顾，事实上在这些书里你可以看到L'artisanPerfumeur、AnnickGoutal、JoMalone等不少沙龙香的品牌及香水。

英文翻译：Serge Lutens, French salon brand. Serge Lutens should have been a free makeup artist at the beginning, and was recommended to carita for work by the beauty editor of vogue in France. Carita is also a skin care brand, which seems to be not available in China. In 80s, Shiseido entered the European market, and the two fragrances Tactics and Murasaki began to echo. Later, from the invitation of Dior to SergeLutens to join the beauty salon, who took charge of the Paris steering helm, the first perfume NombreNoir (black number) was released soon. The rumor was that the packaging was too expensive to make ends meet. Since then, the name of this perfume has been dusty. Until recently, LucaTurin has praised it twice in its own book until it is known again. The first shot didn't go off, but our serge Lutens didn't go down. Instead, we continued to build a feminitedu Bois in 1992. Ah ah, this one is very powerful. It brings a wave of female fragrance with wood fragrance. Moreover, this perfume is also the beginning of the best partnership between SergeLutens and ChristopherSheldrake: SergeLutens leads the way, ChristopherSheldrake modulates perfume, and almost all fragrances under the SergeLutens brand are born. (FeminiteduBois's expert in addition to ChristopherSheldrake, there is also a PierreBourdon, that is, to bring out the cold water, YSL's Kouros, Dior's light dance fragrance, etc. However, it is a pity that this FeminiteduBois seems to be the most influential one in SergeLutens's perfume, and it is not produced by the name of SergeLutens, but hangs the name of Shiseido. I don't know whether it is because of SergeLutens's RP problem in perfume industry, or because his own brand is very shallow. The name of SergeLutens is rarely mentioned by anyone in the perfume industry. In addition to LucaTurin's book, AWO has never seen SergeLutens in other perfume books or interviews with perfume industry insiders. For example, JanMoran's "FabulousFragrancesII", CalkinJellinek's "Perfumery", NigelGroom's "TheNewPerfumeryHandbook" and so on, should be regarded as authoritative books on perfume. None of them mentioned SergeLutens brand or any perfume of his family. Moreover, these books a contemptuous disregard for Sharon brand. In fact, you can see many salon brands and perfume in L'artisanPerfumeur, AnnickGoutal and JoMalone.

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